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More Passenger Side Door
Drivers Door Continued 2
OK, more drivers’ door work. I need to ensure the fit of every component. I also need to know that I can take it all apart and then put it back together without issue. So a full mock-up is required.
I want to completely assemble the doors to a finished and functioning state. So I installed the Dodge window run channel. This is an OEM part for a Dodge Crew Cab. It incorporates a felted channel, an edge grip and a nice OEM finish. The window opening was re-worked to match the glass prior.
I mounted the aftermarket window felted wiper to the outside of the glass. Hugo (Kempo) sent me a couple of sample pieces. Mike (MikesPMS) helped me purchase the item which came in a 96” length.
For the interior side wiper I am using the kit supplied felted piece. The kit includes two sizes for each door. I used the shorted piece (pictured) to test fit prior to going to the longer piece that I will be using.
I also installed the aftermarket channel into the rear door post channel.
I ensured the window tracked and sealed. And that the door opened and closed with no interference. From there I decided to see if I could get the glass to go all the way down. As is, there is 2” of glass exposed when the window is fully down.
Mike and I had spoken earlier about how he was able to accomplish this with his doors. Instead of trying to move the motor to a new location why not just move it over? It works perfectly. The only modifications needed are the bracket and the relocation of the lower forward motor output (up one position). I made the bracket with 11ga steel and I had moved the output when I first installed the window. Right now there are 1/8” clecos holding it until I secure it permanently.
I also installed the door pin switch which I purchased from Ted at Quick Racing Products or QRC.
I still need to install the interior door panel.
I want to completely assemble the doors to a finished and functioning state. So I installed the Dodge window run channel. This is an OEM part for a Dodge Crew Cab. It incorporates a felted channel, an edge grip and a nice OEM finish. The window opening was re-worked to match the glass prior.
I mounted the aftermarket window felted wiper to the outside of the glass. Hugo (Kempo) sent me a couple of sample pieces. Mike (MikesPMS) helped me purchase the item which came in a 96” length.
For the interior side wiper I am using the kit supplied felted piece. The kit includes two sizes for each door. I used the shorted piece (pictured) to test fit prior to going to the longer piece that I will be using.
I also installed the aftermarket channel into the rear door post channel.
I ensured the window tracked and sealed. And that the door opened and closed with no interference. From there I decided to see if I could get the glass to go all the way down. As is, there is 2” of glass exposed when the window is fully down.
Mike and I had spoken earlier about how he was able to accomplish this with his doors. Instead of trying to move the motor to a new location why not just move it over? It works perfectly. The only modifications needed are the bracket and the relocation of the lower forward motor output (up one position). I made the bracket with 11ga steel and I had moved the output when I first installed the window. Right now there are 1/8” clecos holding it until I secure it permanently.
I also installed the door pin switch which I purchased from Ted at Quick Racing Products or QRC.
I still need to install the interior door panel.
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Drivers Door Continued 1
I made more progress on the Driver's door.
I bonded the 3/4" angle aluminum, that will hold the exterior window wiper, the the door. I mocked it into place and held it with clecos. I used 50 grit to to ready the fg of the door and the aluminum surface. With the surfaces clean and fitted I used 3M 8115 to bond the aluminum to the door. With it clamped in place I added rivets to the six holes. I then used a 1/4" bit to remove the the outer area of the head of the rivet. The tops will be filled and flushed with the body work.
I added the extension to the door opening by bonding in a shaped piece of fg. I also added 6 layers of mat to the inside of the vertical opening and onto to the extension. The extension will be fine tuned once the body comes off again.
I reworked the forward window opening of the door as there was a gap that was visible there with the door closed.
I worked the A pillar/ forward window opening area. I used a left over piece of the window track and worked the area with a combination of sanding blocks and rage. I also filled the low spots of the parting line on the A pillar and blocked the area. The pillar is flat, however I will shim the windshield to emulate the adhesive used to install the glass and then add rage to level the pillar and windshield.
I have to say the Dura-Block set was definitely a great purchase. The Dura-Blocks along with the high quality adhesive backed Summit Racing sand paper are making easy work of the blocking I have been doing. The paper last for a really long time compared to the standard auto parts store stuff. I vacuum as I go using my shopvac with a drywall dust bag and round brush attachment. When I stop sanding to inspect the work I use the vacuum to remove the dust from both the sanding area and the sand paper.
I bonded the 3/4" angle aluminum, that will hold the exterior window wiper, the the door. I mocked it into place and held it with clecos. I used 50 grit to to ready the fg of the door and the aluminum surface. With the surfaces clean and fitted I used 3M 8115 to bond the aluminum to the door. With it clamped in place I added rivets to the six holes. I then used a 1/4" bit to remove the the outer area of the head of the rivet. The tops will be filled and flushed with the body work.
I added the extension to the door opening by bonding in a shaped piece of fg. I also added 6 layers of mat to the inside of the vertical opening and onto to the extension. The extension will be fine tuned once the body comes off again.
I reworked the forward window opening of the door as there was a gap that was visible there with the door closed.
I worked the A pillar/ forward window opening area. I used a left over piece of the window track and worked the area with a combination of sanding blocks and rage. I also filled the low spots of the parting line on the A pillar and blocked the area. The pillar is flat, however I will shim the windshield to emulate the adhesive used to install the glass and then add rage to level the pillar and windshield.
I have to say the Dura-Block set was definitely a great purchase. The Dura-Blocks along with the high quality adhesive backed Summit Racing sand paper are making easy work of the blocking I have been doing. The paper last for a really long time compared to the standard auto parts store stuff. I vacuum as I go using my shopvac with a drywall dust bag and round brush attachment. When I stop sanding to inspect the work I use the vacuum to remove the dust from both the sanding area and the sand paper.
Driver's Door
With the passenger side door/window essentially done I need to duplicate my efforts on the driver's side door. The glass needs to fit the door opening in order for the Dodge window channel to work. There were two glass fit issues I have to address to achieve this. The rear vertical door post and forward edge/lip, along the A pillar area, do not follow the correct contours. The rear vertical's top edge and the forward edge/lip need to be moved toward the center of the GTM. I started re-working both to a rough state. The next steps will be to sand and work the forward area to house the Dodge channel and bond the SPW UC-1 channel to the rear post.
I shaped a 12" piece of the SPW UC-1 to the aft portion of the window. It's critical that the piece is perfectly shaped to the rear of the window or the window will not seat in it properly. The window glass does not stay in the track as the glass opens/closes. The glass almost immediately move out of the channel as the glass moves down and seats in the channel just prior to the full closed position.
I also moved to the inside of the door for the interior door handle rod install, the AVS door latch actuator install, the door control module mock-up, the door handle micro swt install and the wiring. I bent the other aluminum piece I cut prior to hold the micro swt, and riveted it in place. I also wired the swt and the timer circuit to the AVS door latch actuator. I bent the donor door handle rod and placed the door panel on the door to check the placement and operation.
I shaped a 12" piece of the SPW UC-1 to the aft portion of the window. It's critical that the piece is perfectly shaped to the rear of the window or the window will not seat in it properly. The window glass does not stay in the track as the glass opens/closes. The glass almost immediately move out of the channel as the glass moves down and seats in the channel just prior to the full closed position.
I also moved to the inside of the door for the interior door handle rod install, the AVS door latch actuator install, the door control module mock-up, the door handle micro swt install and the wiring. I bent the other aluminum piece I cut prior to hold the micro swt, and riveted it in place. I also wired the swt and the timer circuit to the AVS door latch actuator. I bent the donor door handle rod and placed the door panel on the door to check the placement and operation.
Passenger Window
Through a lot of research, trial and error, gathering input and luck, I’ve found my solution for keeping the door windows frame-less and getting a solid seal.
I have to thank the following three Gentlemen for all of the pictures and question answers. Rumrunner (Michael) created a great solution using a combination of aftermarket seals that create a channel for the window. MikesPMS (Mike) used the supplied felted piece in combination with a bulb seal which also created a channel for the glass. GTMsomeday (Ken) did a great job on his Gen1 windows using a front and rear post channel. I studied their solutions; however I wanted to get a different look.
My first attempt was to create a channel using ½” aluminum “U” channel. I was able to cut and get it to the required shape and it worked well without the channel insert installed into it. However with the insert installed it proved to require too much precision as the tolerance was extremely small.
(The Luck)…I was looking at the windows on my Chrysler Aspen and noticed that the window channel was a very nice combination piece. It was the felted channel, a nice factory outer edge, and an edge trim all in one piece. So I removed the passenger side channel and took it to the GTM door to see it I could make it work. It appeared to be worth a try. I found (what I hoped to be the same) one from a late model Dodge Mega Cab on eBay so I ordered it. When it arrived I quickly discovered that it was not the same, but it still contained all three characteristics and (the big positive) it was over 8’ long (more than enough for both doors). I reshaped the upper A pillar area to match the window and the channel was inserted and the window adjusted. Once this was set I moved to the rear post channel.
For the rear post channel, I decided to go with the same universal channel (SPW UC-1) and insert that the builders have used when doing a full window frame modification. A HUGE thanks goes out to TheStig (Mike) for picking these up for me. I made relief cuts and shaped a 12” piece to the rear of the window.
......Now I just need to duplicate this on the driver's side...........
I have to thank the following three Gentlemen for all of the pictures and question answers. Rumrunner (Michael) created a great solution using a combination of aftermarket seals that create a channel for the window. MikesPMS (Mike) used the supplied felted piece in combination with a bulb seal which also created a channel for the glass. GTMsomeday (Ken) did a great job on his Gen1 windows using a front and rear post channel. I studied their solutions; however I wanted to get a different look.
My first attempt was to create a channel using ½” aluminum “U” channel. I was able to cut and get it to the required shape and it worked well without the channel insert installed into it. However with the insert installed it proved to require too much precision as the tolerance was extremely small.
(The Luck)…I was looking at the windows on my Chrysler Aspen and noticed that the window channel was a very nice combination piece. It was the felted channel, a nice factory outer edge, and an edge trim all in one piece. So I removed the passenger side channel and took it to the GTM door to see it I could make it work. It appeared to be worth a try. I found (what I hoped to be the same) one from a late model Dodge Mega Cab on eBay so I ordered it. When it arrived I quickly discovered that it was not the same, but it still contained all three characteristics and (the big positive) it was over 8’ long (more than enough for both doors). I reshaped the upper A pillar area to match the window and the channel was inserted and the window adjusted. Once this was set I moved to the rear post channel.
For the rear post channel, I decided to go with the same universal channel (SPW UC-1) and insert that the builders have used when doing a full window frame modification. A HUGE thanks goes out to TheStig (Mike) for picking these up for me. I made relief cuts and shaped a 12” piece to the rear of the window.
......Now I just need to duplicate this on the driver's side...........
Door Lock Solution
As I progressed on the doors I ran into a few items that caused me to rethink the Pete Dove door lock mod I was going to do. One was the throw of the of the lock mech I added to the latch. It was shorter so the interior lock mechanical lever would not have the full movement in one direction. The next was that the interior mechanical lever was going to display the red "unlock" tape while the door was actually locked. Another was the exterior door handle's rod. I had to put a rather large curve in it. As I adjusted the window to where it needed to be the glass contacted the rod on the bottom aft corner.
So I started brainstorming. My solution is a combination of regular and shaved door handles. With my solution I will have the same security as with the shaved setup, but with a function door handle.
So I added a AVS geared door latch actuator. I chose the AVS geared actuator for it's quiet and strong operation. Its quiet because of the geared operation vise the electromagnetic solenoids normally used for this purpose. There is no thud and it is as quiet as a standard door lock actuator. Instead of using a remote to activate the actuator I added a levered mini-micro swt to the door handle. The next step will be to add a timed circuit that will allow the operation of the setup for a set time limit (I'm thinking 1.5minutes upon the RFID dis-arm and when the unlock swt is pressed. I am keeping the standard physical rod connection between the interior handle and the door latch so there is not the safety issue (Not being able to open the door from the inside if power is lost or having to find the emergency/backup cord) that is a little unsettling to me. This setup will allow me to keep the exterior door handles (I personally like the look of handles on the GTM) and have the security of a shaved setup.
So I started brainstorming. My solution is a combination of regular and shaved door handles. With my solution I will have the same security as with the shaved setup, but with a function door handle.
So I added a AVS geared door latch actuator. I chose the AVS geared actuator for it's quiet and strong operation. Its quiet because of the geared operation vise the electromagnetic solenoids normally used for this purpose. There is no thud and it is as quiet as a standard door lock actuator. Instead of using a remote to activate the actuator I added a levered mini-micro swt to the door handle. The next step will be to add a timed circuit that will allow the operation of the setup for a set time limit (I'm thinking 1.5minutes upon the RFID dis-arm and when the unlock swt is pressed. I am keeping the standard physical rod connection between the interior handle and the door latch so there is not the safety issue (Not being able to open the door from the inside if power is lost or having to find the emergency/backup cord) that is a little unsettling to me. This setup will allow me to keep the exterior door handles (I personally like the look of handles on the GTM) and have the security of a shaved setup.
Timer Circuit added Door Control Module (DCM)
I added the timed circuit to the set up. I connected the timed circuit's activation trigger, to the Positive(+) door unlock actuator output. This activates the timed circuit readying the AVS door latch actuator and door handle micro swt anytime unlock is triggered. So for ~1 minute, when the RFID PKE readies the GTM for start or the FOB unlock button is pressed or the interior door swt unlock button is pressed the exterior door handle can be used to open the door. Outside of that the handle moves through it full motion, but does not activate the actuator.
I did a mock up of the DCM. I needed to find a space where it would fit without interfering with the window or any other item in the door. This location is out of the way of any moving parts.
I did a mock up of the DCM. I needed to find a space where it would fit without interfering with the window or any other item in the door. This location is out of the way of any moving parts.
Passenger Door Window Outside Wiper and Mount
Driver's Door A Pillar Rework
Lower horizontal of pillar required a 1/4" of material to be removed in order to get the door adjusted into a position that allowed the door and the area in front of the upper door to line up for a flat finish. I reworked the area with 8115.
Enclosing the Door Latches
Tom and I did the initial work on fiber glassing in the door latches. I still need to pull them and take care of the areas where I initially removed too much material and add a front above and below the moving latch. I also need to paint the latches black.
Door Adjustment
The doors have been adjusted. Referencing their original position each has been moved up and aft. The strikers have also been changed front the set I fabricated to a set of ½” GM latches purchased from the local auto parts store help section. The latches were perfect with the exception of their head thickness. Tom turned them on his lathe to decease the thickness of the heads. The door now shut with a finger push into a perfectly aligned position. Now I can address the windows again from the doors new position.
Driver's Side Window
I decided to start with the passenger side anticipating that it would be the most difficult. I started work on the driver's side thinking it would go quickly and smoothly, but this wan not the case. For some reason, I suspect this door frame differs from the other, the regulator motor lower cable output is directed straight down. This was not allowing the cable to move the clamps up and down smoothly. To solve this I removed the plate covering the cable. I then moved the lower output cable to the next location, giving the output a less resistant path. I also moved the motor's termination to the opposite side in an effort to allow the window to go lower when in the down position this idea came from Rumrunner.
I have the window functioning with the felted weather seal installed. The window still needs tweaking as it is not contacting the seal at the top.
I have the window functioning with the felted weather seal installed. The window still needs tweaking as it is not contacting the seal at the top.
Driver's Door Handle Lock Mech
I am doing door locks. The Gen1 kits shipped with a door latch mech that included a lock mech. The manual instructs you to remove it prior to installing the door latches. The Gen2's door latches do not include this item. After doing some research I was very sure that the "Small Bear Claw" Door Latch was the same/extremely similar to the included latch. So I ordered a set of which included the lock mech. They are a perfect match. I will have the mechanical lock/unlock interior switch function along with an actuator for the power feature.
I also installed the door handle
I also installed the door handle
Driver's Side Power Mirror Install
This install was quick and painless after learning from installing the passenger side power mirror. After measuring 2 1/4" as per the manual I removed the two aft studs from the mirror housing. I then placed the mirror's rubber gasket in position using the passenger side for reference. I then drilled the forward 1/4" hole and a 3/4" hole for the mirror's harness. I then placed the mirror on the door and hand tightened the nut so that I could rotate the mirror but it would not move on it's on. I took some measurements form the passenger side and set the driver's mirror to match. Then I sat in the GTM to ensure the mirror would be functional. I then carefully slid some tape between the mirror and the rubber gasket to hold it in place. I then removed the mirror, drilled the two aft holes, replaced the studs and installed the mirror.
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Passenger Side Power Window
With some helpful information from Rumrunner and Kempo I was able to get the passenger side window installed. There was no need to cut and weld the door frame for clearance. I am using the corvette door module and switch.
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Passenger Side Power Mirror
With the door and window installed I moved to the power mirror. I removed the mirror's mounting studs to aid in installation. With the studs removed it was easier to place the mirror to see how it looked on the door. From there I installed it per the manual and then sat in the driver's seat to test it's functionality. I am using the corvette door switch in my GTM which has the mirror controls. When I sat in the seat I could see that Installing the mirror per the manual does give it very level appearance, but is not very functional. There was not enough adjustment in the mirror. I could not see any higher than the top of the rear wheel. So I removed the mirror, the center and rear studs and then placed the mirror back on the door with only the forward most stud. I then tightened it just enough to hold it flat against the door, but to a level that allowed me to rotate the mirror about the stud. Then I sat in the driver's seat and made adjustments that allowed the mirror to function properly with some excess viewing area.
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Door Strikers
While I wait for the Roof/Halo issue to be resolve I am holding off on the final fitment of the doors. Because of the known passenger side gap between the body and frame in the door striker area the supplied door striker is too short to function. My solution is to fabricate a new striker. I did this by purchasing a set of 2.5" long 3/8" bolts, a .5" OD steel tube, some 3/8" fender washers and some 3/8' nuts. I placed the blot in place to get the length need. I subtracted the fender washer's thickness and used my pipe cutting tool to cut the steel pipe. I also used the cut off wheel to cut the head of the bolt down to match the original strikers. I fabricated a striker for the driver's side as well. You have enough adjustment on the driver's side to make the included striker work, but then it wouldn't match the other. For the purpose of testing the striker on the passenger side I put a .5" nut in the gap so that I could tighten the striker. I will fill this area with fiberglass reinforced filler added to the body. I also increased the hole in the striker mount to .5" and am using a washer/nut to secure the striker. This will give greater adjustment. From another Gen2 builder that has installed his passenger side window without redoing the door frame; you need more adjustment of the door latch toward the center of the GTM in order for the frame to work with the window without modification. This requires that the striker carry the same ability for adjustment.
