Modifying / Fabricating Interior Parts.
I am modifying the dash to allow for a better fit around my custom IP and HUD. I made a lateral cut separating the piece into to to parts. The lip on the face was trimmed and I tilted the upper portion, closest to the steering wheel, toward the steering wheel. This put the top, of this part, lower allowing more visual area through the windshield and gives me a better platform to finish the part.
Driver's side Rear-Quarter Window, Seat-belt, Kick, Panel Cover Fabrication
I made poster paper templates of the kick and side panels since these would be flat. Then added resin to two layers of chopped mat on a sheet of tempered glass I salvaged from a table top.
formed the general shape, with foam, around the rear windows and cardboard everywhere else. After these were glassed and cured i removed the pieces from the gtm.
formed the general shape, with foam, around the rear windows and cardboard everywhere else. After these were glassed and cured i removed the pieces from the gtm.
Passenger's side Rear-Quarter Window, Seat-belt, Kick, Panel Cover Fabrication
used the same technique on the passenger side, but with one additional fiberglass flat for the section under the rear quarter window.
Seat Belt Install
Started the seat belt install. Mike (MikesPMS) made a set of brackets for me. The brackets bolt to the GTM's seat belt reel attachment points and place the seat belt reels in the same relative position as they were in the corvette. This allows them to function fully just as they were originally engineered to and there is no need to modify the reels (which may be unsafe).
The manual instructs you to remove the reels mech that will lock the reel if the center weight is not level. This will lock the reels and keep you locked in should the vehicle experience enough g-force or in the event the vehicle rolls. Using this bracket alleviates that concern.
The manual instructs you to remove the reels mech that will lock the reel if the center weight is not level. This will lock the reels and keep you locked in should the vehicle experience enough g-force or in the event the vehicle rolls. Using this bracket alleviates that concern.
Door Panel "Top Addition" RH Side
The door panel, as it arrives, only covers the inside of the door. This leaves the top of the door exposed. Its not a problem, but I can't recall any late model production auto that uses this same technique. So I decided to add the top section. I removed the faux leather covering and cleaned the panel. Since the door panels are ABS plastic I chose to use ABS for the task. Using 12"x12"x1/8" sheets I measured, cut and then used the heat gun to form an angle in the pieces. I then taped them in place, cleaned and wired brushed the area to be welded.
When I purchased the plastic welding iron I also purchased some additional welding sticks. However I decided to cut strips from the ABS sheet to use a welding sticks. I chose this option for because the ABS sticks I purchased were white and using the same material insures compatibility.
I did a rough sanding with 80 grit. Depending on how I cover the panel, the passenger side may be ready or need some additional detailed filling and sanding. One down one to go.
When I purchased the plastic welding iron I also purchased some additional welding sticks. However I decided to cut strips from the ABS sheet to use a welding sticks. I chose this option for because the ABS sticks I purchased were white and using the same material insures compatibility.
I did a rough sanding with 80 grit. Depending on how I cover the panel, the passenger side may be ready or need some additional detailed filling and sanding. One down one to go.
Door Panel "Top Addition" LH Side
Started working on the LH door panel.
Roll Bar Cover Rework Continued.
I am continuing the rework of the roll bar covers. My COA is to complete any items that have to be completed or fitted while the body is on and this is one of them. After I cut and re-glassed the cover to get it to fit in the GTM I didn't like how there were still exposed area around the pieces. I am adding to the front to cover the area between the windshield and roll bar cover as well as modifying the pillar pieces to do the same and cover the aft portion of the pillar that is now attached to the body for gen2 GTMs. I used foam to add the the pillar pieces to get the shape I wanted and I glassed over them with a layer of mat followed by a layer of cloth. The next steps are to trim the excess from the main cover piece and start detailing the pillar parts.
Power Seats...........*Update*
This is another Item Mike and I have been working on. Our primary concern is head room. I have 2.5" between my head and the roof with my current set up. My current set up is the FFR seat tracks mounted using David Borden's seat brackets. If this works we will have power for and aft as well as front and rear up and down as it was in the corvette. This will function in conjunction with my current three memory positions. Mike's donor did not have a power passenger seat, but my coupe did so I may modify the passenger side also.
*Update*
When I visited Mikes Shop I was able to sit in his power seat mod. His floor panel relief helps to save some head room and he is a great fit, but it only left me with about 3/4" of clearance from my head to the roof. This was with the seat raked to a point that was not very comfortable and it rules our a helmet should I decide to visit a track.
Roll Bar Cover Fitment and Rework
As I expected I had to shorten the piece in order for it to fit. My halo is closer together by about ¾” than the halo of the GTM used to make the plug for this piece. After making piece in the section in front of the driver’s and passenger’s head, I made cuts from back to front and separated the part into three pieces. I then fit the three pieces individually stating with the outside pieces and ending with the center section. I held them up with clecos and an aluminum bracket clecoed to the rear fire wall. It is a large piece to work with and cutting it actually made it easier to work with than when I was test fitting it as a whole.
Once it was in the GTM I marked the overlaps adjacent to the cuts I previously made then pulled the center piece for trimming. After it was trimmed I used paint sticks (cut to 1.5”) and hot glue to position the pieces for fg. I then pulled the part and glassed the inside with a single layer of mat. After the fg and resin cured I removed the paint stick pieces and rough blocked the seam level. I will be adding a layer of fg to the front and sanding it to a smooth finish ready for leather I will be covering the part with.
With the piece now fitting in the GTM I see quite a few areas that I am going to rework in order to have a more production car fit and finish. I started protection the driver’s dash pod as I will be adding to the pillar piece. When I’m done it will cover the entire pillar section which is now part of the body on the Gen2. These covers were make using a Gen1 where this piece was part of the door.
Once it was in the GTM I marked the overlaps adjacent to the cuts I previously made then pulled the center piece for trimming. After it was trimmed I used paint sticks (cut to 1.5”) and hot glue to position the pieces for fg. I then pulled the part and glassed the inside with a single layer of mat. After the fg and resin cured I removed the paint stick pieces and rough blocked the seam level. I will be adding a layer of fg to the front and sanding it to a smooth finish ready for leather I will be covering the part with.
With the piece now fitting in the GTM I see quite a few areas that I am going to rework in order to have a more production car fit and finish. I started protection the driver’s dash pod as I will be adding to the pillar piece. When I’m done it will cover the entire pillar section which is now part of the body on the Gen2. These covers were make using a Gen1 where this piece was part of the door.
Roll Bar Cover
I pulled out the roll bar covers. I will be fitting these shortly. Mike makes them slightly oversized so some trimming will be required. My halo is welded slightly closer than the chassis he made the mold from so I expect I am going to have to take a 1/4" TO 1/2" Out of oneside between the A pillar and the center.
Instrument Panel(IP) Bezel Fabrication
Prior to starting my build and during planning I placed in my plans to incorporate as many of the C5 corvette systems as I could. The limitations are space and cost. If you have the funds you can have essentially anything you would like in the build. That’s not me and I have a budget which is the reason I am building my Supercar.
In my search for info on adding the corvette IP I found one builder that was trying to do it. He did get the IP powered up, but has not been on the forum, from what I can tell, since last year. Steve (SK7500) has a functioning C5 IP in his build. Ted (LSman) wired the C5 IP for Steve. LSman has great knowledge of the corvette electrical system and was a source of answers for most of my questions while I was wiring my GTM.
In order to add the C5 IP Major Fabrication is required. SK7500 is fabricating an entirely new dash and console around the C5 IP. He has a mobile install tech back ground too. I have chosen a different route. My route requires tearing down the IP and rebuilding it to take up less space and then fabricating a new custom bezel to house the modified IP. My method still requires custom fabrication, but also knowledge of electronic components and a comfort level with them. Caution should be taken when working with the IP primarily because there are a few HIGH POWER CIRCUITS there. This approach also allows me to use the kits dash pod and keep the "GTM" interior look.
The IP on the C5 is clean and puts a multitude of information at your fingertips.
In my search for info on adding the corvette IP I found one builder that was trying to do it. He did get the IP powered up, but has not been on the forum, from what I can tell, since last year. Steve (SK7500) has a functioning C5 IP in his build. Ted (LSman) wired the C5 IP for Steve. LSman has great knowledge of the corvette electrical system and was a source of answers for most of my questions while I was wiring my GTM.
In order to add the C5 IP Major Fabrication is required. SK7500 is fabricating an entirely new dash and console around the C5 IP. He has a mobile install tech back ground too. I have chosen a different route. My route requires tearing down the IP and rebuilding it to take up less space and then fabricating a new custom bezel to house the modified IP. My method still requires custom fabrication, but also knowledge of electronic components and a comfort level with them. Caution should be taken when working with the IP primarily because there are a few HIGH POWER CIRCUITS there. This approach also allows me to use the kits dash pod and keep the "GTM" interior look.
The IP on the C5 is clean and puts a multitude of information at your fingertips.
The technique I use for fabricating items like this is well known to custom car audio installers. For the bezel a skeleton is created that fills the required space and forms the basic shape. Then the skeleton is filled and shaped until the desired results are obtained. The piece still requires a lot of filling and sanding before I prime and paint it flat black. After paint I will add Lexan to the front for both cosmetics and to keep dust out.
More gauge bezel work. The bezel is close to being ready for primer/paint. I replaced the C5 Corvette gauge faces with the EL Glow replacement. It is not a reverse glow face, but has glowing digits and markers. The camera shows them to look blue, however to the eye it shows as a very clean white glow. This also gets rid of the corvette flags that were on the tach and speed faces.
A few coats of sandable primer and a lot of sanding. It still needs some finishing glaze in a few spots. Then some more sanding.
I finished the sanding and added a few coats of flat black.
IP Customization and Parts
The IP HUD/dimmer control and the Driver Information Center (DIC) are being relocated in my build. There new home will be in the center of the Roll Bar Cover. I was going with the EL GLow gauge set but found a great deal on a Reverse Glow Gauge set which arrived on Saturday. I am also removing the yellow/orange bulbs from the two previous mentioned controls and door panel switches. I will be soldering in blue LEDs in place of each bulb. This will coordinate all of the GTM's swithes and give them a late model and very clean look. It also makes it easier to match the Head units lights as most have a blue selection. The LEDs also arrived on Saturday.
I installed the new glow gauges last night. I also made some functional and physical changes the the shape of the bezel. So more sanding and it should be ready for some dark primer in the adjusted areas and if it meets my standards, flat black paint will immediately follow.
I plan to start soldering the blue LEDs into the IP's HUD/Dimmer control, the DIC and both door switches tonight.
I installed the new glow gauges last night. I also made some functional and physical changes the the shape of the bezel. So more sanding and it should be ready for some dark primer in the adjusted areas and if it meets my standards, flat black paint will immediately follow.
I plan to start soldering the blue LEDs into the IP's HUD/Dimmer control, the DIC and both door switches tonight.
I finished sanding the bezel additions and changes. I then hit the areas with black primer followed by painting the entire piece with a few coats of flat black. I used my jigsaw with a high tooth count metal cutting blade to cut the lexan front while the bezel dried. After the bezel was dry I set the bezel on the gauges to get a look and take some pictures. Next I will be adding the aluminum trim rings to the bezel and attaching the 1/8" clear lexan front.
I lined the perimeter with adhesive backed black felt and screwed on the lexan front. Now I just need to mount and wire the UV lights that illuminate the needles and the glow gauge power supply.
IP Video
I shot a quick video of the IP with my phone. I'll shoot a high quality video soon.
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Mock-Up of Console, Dash, Door Panels and Roll Bar Cover.
I placed the console in and clamped both dash pods to it. I placed the door panels on the doors and taped them in place. The fit is spot on and the dash pad does not need to be trimmed as the Gen1 dash required for the door to close. I also put the roll bar cover and the pillar pieces in and taped them in place. I had to make a cut on my roll bar cover and overlap it for fitment. I believe this is due directly to my halo being welded slightly different than the GTM Mike used to create the cover. I made the cut directly in front of the passenger's head. After I have the cover cleco'd in I will make mark, cut flush and re-glass the area.
With everything in place the overall fit was OK. The roll bar cover requires trimming primarily on the center section. It was made oversized for custom fitment. The driver's pillar piece is perfect, however the passenger side piece and dash pod do not match and there is a gap that I will have to address o the dash pod or pillar piece.
With everything in place the overall fit was OK. The roll bar cover requires trimming primarily on the center section. It was made oversized for custom fitment. The driver's pillar piece is perfect, however the passenger side piece and dash pod do not match and there is a gap that I will have to address o the dash pod or pillar piece.
Doors
Installed the door handles.
Driver's Seat Seat Track with David Borden's Seat Track Brackets
The kit instructions has the seat installed using rivnuts secured into the fiberglass. I have not seen or read of anyone how has them installed this way havein issues with them staying once installed. The installation is a different story. David Borden created these brackets. The brackets are machined 6061. They were designed to use with seat tracks and allow the seat to still be mounted with the butt pan still contacting the floor for maximum head room. The brackets also allow easy adjustment of the seats angle. The new Gen2 seats are upholstered differently and require on that you un-Velcro the cover just inside where the four holes are drilled for the seat track. After testing the seat for movement with the FFR one locking side seat track I ordered a second track from summit racing to install on the passenger side.